Towns

Fourteen towns in fourteen regions

All under five thousand residents, none in the standard rotation, each chosen because something specific happened there that you can still go and look at. Population figures are Istat, 1 January 2026.

Driving times are road-routing estimates, not certified data · Last checked 2026-09-12
Liguria

Triora

419 residents. Between 1587 and 1589 an inquisitor sent from Genoa tried thirteen women of this village for witchcraft.

Piedmont

Ostana

78 residents. By the 1980s fewer than ten people still lived in Ostana, all of them old.

Friuli Venezia Giulia

Venzone

1,941 residents. The earthquakes of 6 May and 11 September 1976 flattened this walled town.

Emilia-Romagna

Compiano

1,047 residents. Compiano castle holds the only international Museum of Freemasonry in Italy: regalia, medals, vestments and paintings from English eighteenth and nineteenth-century symbolism, alongside Italian material.

Marche

Offida

4,569 residents. The bobbin lace is not a museum exhibit here.

Lazio

Calcata

905 residents. In 1935 the mayor registered Calcata among the towns to be moved under a 1908 law on settlements threatened by landslides.

Abruzzo

Santo Stefano di Sessanio

102 residents. The Medici tower came down in the earthquake of 6 April 2009.

Molise

Sepino

1,815 residents. Saepinum-Altilia is a complete Roman town: gate, forum, basilica, theatre.

Campania

Roscigno

570 residents. Roscigno Vecchia is an entire village left standing and empty.

Puglia

Specchia

4,453 residents. Under the streets of the old centre runs a network of underground oil mills cut into the rock, in use from the fifteenth to the nineteenth century.

Basilicata

Castelmezzano

684 residents. About fifty narrow steps cut straight into the sandstone climb to the highest point of a Norman-Swabian fort, where a lookout watched the Basento valley.

Calabria

Stilo

2,306 residents. The Cattolica di Stilo is a Byzantine chapel of the ninth or tenth century built against the rock: a square plan, three apses facing east, five brick domes, and four interior columns probably taken from the ruins of Greek Kaulon.

Sicily

Petralia Soprana

2,807 residents. Beneath the town, in the Raffo district, there is a working rock-salt mine.

Sardinia

Orgosolo

3,803 residents. The murals begin in 1969 with the Dionysus Group, an anarchist collective led by Giancarlo Celli.

Twelve of these, in one file

The guide takes twelve of the fourteen, one per region, and adds what each entry here leaves out: what to do with the drive, and what goes wrong.

No spam, one letter a week, unsubscribe in one click.